The only half Swedish Australian in Moldova
Being exotic has its advantages. People are more interested in you, and what you think. And as an opinionated person, I warm to that.
‘You and your wife live here in Chisinau?’ Yes.
‘Ahhh, you’re from Australia, not Austria!?’ That’s right.
‘But your mother is Swedish?’ Uhuh.
‘When are you leaving Moldova?’ Actually, we’re planning to stay.
‘Really?? (Implied: Why on Earth would you choose to live here?)’
Often people here are surprised Cristina and I want to live in Moldova, the poorest country in Europe. It’s understandable. Since the collapse of the USSR, hundreds of thousands have left the country for ‘greener pastures’ in Russia, Italy, Greece, Spain and Turkey. When even a doctor earns less than US $100 per month, annual inflation and interest rates are above 10%, and there’s little foreign investment, who can blame those who seek money for their family elsewhere?
Naturally life for me has its challenges, too, especially with the prospect of learning two new and complicated languages. Unfortunately (for them and for me) Moldova isn’t yet like Sweden, where many people speak English. Here in the capital, roughly two thirds speak the ‘state language’ (aka ‘Romanian’). But, after decades as part of the Soviet Union, many still only know Russian.
Yet after living most of my life in a predictable country like Australia, it’s far more interesting here. A former USSR republic of 4 million souls struggling to stand on its own two feet! And this struggle has a real sense of drama.
On the one hand, Moldova is recovering from civil war in the 90s; has a disputed territory of ‘Transnistria’ controlled by Russian ‘peacekeepers’; has few solid industries (exports half what it imports); corrupt behaviour is the norm in every sector and level of society; a culture turning 180 degrees from supply-driven to demand-driven thinking; and closed curtains on houses.
On the other hand, Moldova is loaded with genuine human warmth, hospitality and musicality; super-tasty organic vegetables, walnuts and world-class wines; smart and highly creative people; and gorgeous countryside.
The latter picture will triumph but it will take time.
People raise their eyebrows when we explain Moldova is like Sweden 100 years ago – that there is reason for hope! Building a sense of self-confidence in the community will be key. For a start, we’re leaving the curtains in our apartment wide open…
‘You and your wife live here in Chisinau?’ Yes.
‘Ahhh, you’re from Australia, not Austria!?’ That’s right.
‘But your mother is Swedish?’ Uhuh.
‘When are you leaving Moldova?’ Actually, we’re planning to stay.
‘Really?? (Implied: Why on Earth would you choose to live here?)’
Often people here are surprised Cristina and I want to live in Moldova, the poorest country in Europe. It’s understandable. Since the collapse of the USSR, hundreds of thousands have left the country for ‘greener pastures’ in Russia, Italy, Greece, Spain and Turkey. When even a doctor earns less than US $100 per month, annual inflation and interest rates are above 10%, and there’s little foreign investment, who can blame those who seek money for their family elsewhere?
Naturally life for me has its challenges, too, especially with the prospect of learning two new and complicated languages. Unfortunately (for them and for me) Moldova isn’t yet like Sweden, where many people speak English. Here in the capital, roughly two thirds speak the ‘state language’ (aka ‘Romanian’). But, after decades as part of the Soviet Union, many still only know Russian.
Yet after living most of my life in a predictable country like Australia, it’s far more interesting here. A former USSR republic of 4 million souls struggling to stand on its own two feet! And this struggle has a real sense of drama.
On the one hand, Moldova is recovering from civil war in the 90s; has a disputed territory of ‘Transnistria’ controlled by Russian ‘peacekeepers’; has few solid industries (exports half what it imports); corrupt behaviour is the norm in every sector and level of society; a culture turning 180 degrees from supply-driven to demand-driven thinking; and closed curtains on houses.
On the other hand, Moldova is loaded with genuine human warmth, hospitality and musicality; super-tasty organic vegetables, walnuts and world-class wines; smart and highly creative people; and gorgeous countryside.
The latter picture will triumph but it will take time.
People raise their eyebrows when we explain Moldova is like Sweden 100 years ago – that there is reason for hope! Building a sense of self-confidence in the community will be key. For a start, we’re leaving the curtains in our apartment wide open…
posted by Erik at 1:21 AM
2 Comments:
Erik! Just found this. Great post. I don't agree in that Australia being "predictable" is a negative though! Australia has Russell Crowe, Crowded House, Sheep (actually we have none of those things - bloody kiwis).
actually we do have sheep. but their all dead. (bloody drought/floods as the occasion dictates)
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